Carr and Latham’s technology of clothing manufacture / Revised by David J. Tyler . – 4th ed. p. cm. Includes bibliographical references and. As in previous editions, the processes of modern clothing manufacture are explained alongside the equipment which is used. The latest developments – as well. Details for Carr & Latham’s Technology of Clothing Manufacture The processes of modern clothing manufacture are explained here, alongside the equipment.
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It repeats theprocess until it achieves the required number of plies. However, in some cases, as long as the pattern pieces of an individualgarment all lie in the same direction, the direction they lie in does notmatter. Correct ply direction and adequate lay stability Adn two factors must be considered together as the opportunities for achieving them are related.
It is sold on the understanding that thePublisher is not engaged in rendering manufscture services. Avoiding distortion in the spreadSpreaders are required to lay up the fabric tension-free, so that thegarment pieces do not shrink in unpredictable ways before cutting.
Carr and Latham’s Technology of Clothing Manufacture, 4th Edition
This contains a lubricant that lubricates the knife blade as itpasses through the manufcature, thus reducing the generation of heatenergy and the temperature of the knife. Third, fabrics vary in thickness. Methods of spreading which lay alternate plies in different direc-tions can only be used for two-way fabrics.
In this case, if a fabric ply is turned round it does not retain the sameappearance, especially when the two opposite ways are sewn together. Suspension from above also reduces the need for a heavygauge standard behind the knife, and the width of the blade is alsoreduced, allowing easier cutting of sharper curves.
Open fabric — rolled Most fabrics are supplied rolled as a single ply directly on to a dis- posable, tubular cardboard core about 7 to 8 cm in diameter. The maximum fabric width that can be handled is normally 2 m,although extra wide machines capable of handling up to 3 m are avail-able. A piece of clothwhen spread to this length will not give many plies before it runs out,and it may not be possible to mix garments cut from it with garmentscut from another piece because the shade may not be exactly thesame.
Reference copies in miniature can also be plotted. However, there is considerable variation in practice evenwithin one sector of the industry. Includes bibliographical references and index. Consequently, marker planning is a highly skilled activity and different people have ,atham aptitudes for this kind of work.
Hand shearsHand shears are normally used only when cutting single or doubleplies. The obvious disadvantage of the method lies in the time itconsumes and the consequent high labour cost per garment, but it isappropriate cloothing made-to-measure garments. These copying methods were used widely in the s, but have been steadily overtaken in popularity by computerised plotting. Even if a band knife is used for the maincutting operation, a straight knife will be used to separate the lay intosections for technoolgy handling.
A formula describes this: Showing all editions for ‘Carr and Latham’s technology of clothing manufacture’ Sort by: In addition o the tension that may be produced by a conventionalspreading machine, there are likely to be tensions inherent in thefabric roll arising from the twist, texturising or elasticity of the yarnand the relationships of loops in the knitted structure.
These include underwear, shirts and schoolwear. Faults clotbing normally marked with a strip of contrasting fabric but no further action is taken at spreading.
Thegarment parts are then cut out with hand shears, electric cutters ordies.
Thismethod may still be used where companies make only short or singlegarment markers e. An example of equipment for top-ply labelling is shown in Fig. In addition the ends of the plies must be cut off squarely, allowing the smallest possible loss at both ends, and having regard to the weft grain. The work of the marker planner is subject to a number of constraints relating to: One edge of the blade is sharpened.
The former ensures that control is maintained over the fabric tube and that no differential movement takes place. Account Options Sign in.
The third course of action is sort and recut. The marker planner must ensure that the top ends of the patternpieces, as they will be worn in the garment, all face the same way. If the fault lies in an area of waste then no action is needed. In the absenceof a domestic manufacturer, the question needs to be asked: This extends to checking that the product looks right over thewhole size range and helping to resolve any issues lagham arise.
Three other types of fabric fault affect the fabric as a whole, and require the spreader to respond in appropriate ways. The sewing machine is no more than a power-operated needle, with Background to the Clothing Industryother mechanisms in synchronisation, which produces a series ofstitches continually.
Thus a spreadercan be preset to a selected number of plies, emitting an audible signalwhen it has reached the selected number or has come to the end of apiece of fabric.
The operators work back from the end, aligning the edges and ensuring that there is no tension and that there are no wrinkles.
Carr and Latham’s Technology of Clothing Manufacture Pages 1 – 50 – Text Version | FlipHTML5
This in turn has led to extensive investment in computerised technoloby room equipment by the larger manufacturers who are able to cut large amounts of garments csrr only a small staff.
Blade diameters vary from 6 cm to 20 cm. When a single garment is cut out, the garment pattern is attachedto one or two plies of the fabric in a way that allows for any specialrequirements such as matching of the design on the fabric.
The planner will then try a number of pattern placements, selecting the one that gives the shortest marker. If abd will be by computer-controlled knife, it is possible not toplot any of the marker but to attach adhesive labels to the top ply offabric to give the information necessary to section garment parts intobundles.
About the Author David J Tyler graduated in physics from Southampton University and started working for an industrial research association serving the textiles and clothing industry.
Tyler tChapter One Background to the Clothing IndustryClothing manufacture is an activity dominated by the need for humanskills, with a great range of raw materials, product types, productiontechnologies, production volumes, retail markets and brands.
All these global changes have implicationsfor technology. The most important consideration in selecting a straight knife is the power required from the operator to move the knife through the lay. During the s, large projects were funded in the USA, Japan and the EU that had the goal of increasing the competitiveness of domestic manufacture via automation. The option ofselecting a machine with a different blade stroke provides anotherway of solving the problem of the fusing of synthetics, as an alterna-tive to varying the machine speed.
The type of table surface is critical for the spreading and cutting operations. In practice, plot- ters are commonly left to run overnight.